Patterns have their own language — and nobody hands you the dictionary. This is it. Every abbreviation you'll encounter, decoded simply, in one place.
Type any abbreviation or stitch name — tap a result to jump straight to it.
Start here. These are the stitches every pattern uses, and the ones you'll see on every single row.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| ch | Chain | Yarn over, pull through the loop on your hook. The foundation of almost everything — rows start with a chain, and patterns often call for "ch 3" as a turning chain. | |
| sl st | Slip stitch | The flattest stitch in crochet — no height at all. Used to join rounds, move yarn without adding height, or create surface decoration. | |
| sc | Single crochet | The shortest "real" stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. Creates tight, dense fabric. (US terms — see Section VI for UK equivalent.) | |
| hdc | Half double crochet | Slightly taller than sc. Yarn over first, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops at once. Creates a soft, slightly textured fabric. | |
| dc | Double crochet | The workhorse stitch. Yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops again. Fast and versatile. (US terms.) | |
| tr | Treble crochet | Taller than dc. YO twice, insert hook, pull up loop — then (YO, pull through 2 loops) 3 times. Creates an open, lacy fabric. | |
| dtr | Double treble crochet | Even taller — YO 3 times, insert hook, pull up loop, (YO, pull through 2 loops) 4 times. Used in lace and decorative stitch patterns. | |
| yo | Yarn over | Wrap the yarn over your hook from back to front. The action that makes every stitch happen — it's mentioned explicitly when the pattern wants to remind you, or in special stitch instructions. | |
| sp | Space | Work into the gap between stitches, not into a stitch itself — insert hook into the chain gap below, not into the top of a stitch. Common in lace: "dc into ch-2 sp" means insert hook into the hole created by a previous chain-2, not into the chain stitches themselves. | |
| rep | Repeat | Do the preceding sequence again as many times as instructed. "Rep from *" means go back to the asterisk and do it again. | |
| beg | Beginning | Usually refers to the start of a round or row — "sl st to beg ch-3" means slip stitch back to where you started. | |
| rem | Remaining | The stitches still to work across. "Sc in rem sts" means single crochet in every stitch left in the row. | |
| approx | Approximately | The measurement is close but may vary slightly based on your tension and yarn. Common in finished dimensions. | |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) | A generic reference to any stitch. Numbers in brackets after a row — "(48 sts)" — tell you how many stitches you should have at the end. | |
| rnd | Round | A complete circuit when working in the round (as in hats or amigurumi). Unlike a row, a round ends where it began. | |
| RS / WS | Right side / Wrong side | RS is the "public" face of your work — the side that shows. WS is the back. Important for seaming and pattern reading. |
Tired of decoding abbreviations mid-row? Hook Cookbook turns your pattern into a step-by-step guide
Try it free 🧶These start appearing once patterns get a little more interesting. None of them are as complicated as they look.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| BLO | Back loop only | Work into only the back loop of the stitch — the loop furthest from you. Creates a ridged, ribbed texture. Classic for hat brims and cuffs. | |
| FLO | Front loop only | Work into only the front loop — the one closest to you. Creates a ridge on the opposite side from BLO. Used for texture and decorative ridging. | |
| BL | Back loop | Same as BLO — some patterns use this shorthand instead. | |
| FL | Front loop | Same as FLO. | |
| PM | Place marker | Put a stitch marker here to remember this spot. Used at the beginning of rounds, at increases, or anywhere you'll need to find again. | |
| SM | Slip marker | Move the stitch marker from the previous stitch to the current one as you pass it. Keeps your marker in the right place through each round. | |
| tch / t-ch | Turning chain | The chain stitches made at the beginning of a row to bring your hook up to the right height. A dc row usually starts with "ch 3" as the turning chain — which may or may not count as a stitch depending on the pattern. | |
| C2C | Corner to corner | A specific diagonal construction technique for blankets and graphghan squares. You build the piece diagonally, increasing to the midpoint and decreasing back down. | |
| MB | Make bobble | Work several partially-completed dc into the same stitch, then close them all together. Creates a raised, textured bump on the fabric surface. | |
| PS / pop | Popcorn stitch | Work 5 dc into the same stitch, remove hook, reinsert through the first dc, pull the loop through. Creates a bold, raised popcorn shape that pops to the front. | |
| puff | Puff stitch | Similar to a bobble but using hdc instead of dc — yarn over, insert, pull up a loop (repeat several times), then close all loops. Softer and rounder than a bobble. | |
| CL | Cluster | Multiple stitches worked into different locations but joined at the top. Often written as "3-dc cl" — three double crochets clustered together at the top. | |
| picot | Picot | A small decorative loop on the edge of your work — usually "ch 3, sl st in first ch." Common in lace edgings and collar details. | |
| spike | Spike stitch | Insert your hook lower than the current row — into a stitch one or more rows below — to create a vertical elongated stitch effect. Used in colourwork and textured patterns. | |
| FO | Fasten off | Cut your yarn and pull the tail through the last loop to secure it. You're done with this piece or section. |
Instead of making a long starting chain and crocheting back across it, foundation stitches create the base chain and first row of stitches simultaneously — giving you a stretchier, neater edge.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fsc | Foundation single crochet | Creates a starting chain and a single crochet simultaneously, producing a stretchier, more even bottom edge than a standard starting chain. | |
| Fhdc | Foundation half double crochet | Creates a starting chain and a half double crochet simultaneously — same principle as Fsc, producing a slightly taller foundation row. | |
| Fdc | Foundation double crochet | Creates a starting chain and a double crochet simultaneously. Ideal for garments where the bottom edge needs to match the drape of the rest of the fabric. |
These are the abbreviations that shape your work. Increases add stitches, decreases remove them. Together they create curves, angles, and three-dimensional form.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| inc | Increase | Work two stitches into the same stitch — adding one stitch to your total count. The exact stitch type (sc, dc, etc.) depends on context. | |
| dec | Decrease | Combine two stitches into one — removing one stitch from your total count. The method varies: sc2tog, dc2tog, invdec are all decreases. | |
| sc2tog | Single crochet two together | Insert hook, pull up loop in first stitch, insert hook, pull up loop in second stitch, yarn over, pull through all three loops. Reduces two stitches into one. The standard sc decrease. | |
| dc2tog | Double crochet two together | Work a dc in the first stitch up to the last step, then a dc in the second stitch up to the last step, then close both together. Reduces two dc stitches into one. | |
| hdc2tog | Half double crochet two together | Same principle as dc2tog but using hdc. Works through five loops total before closing. | |
| invdec | Invisible decrease | A neater alternative to sc2tog, especially in amigurumi. Insert hook through the front loop of the first stitch AND the front loop of the next stitch, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops. Creates a much flatter, less visible decrease. | |
| sk | Skip | Pass over the next stitch without working into it, leaving skipped stitches unworked. Skipping stitches creates holes (for lace) or shapes (for construction). | |
| sk2tog | Skip 2 together | Skip the next two stitches. Often paired with a compensating stitch count elsewhere in the row. | |
| 2-in-1 | Two stitches in one | Same as an increase — work two stitches into the same stitch. Some patterns prefer this notation for clarity. |
Rule of 2: For all tall-stitch decreases, the pattern is always the same — work partial stitches until one loop remains per stitch plus one, then YO and pull through all loops at once. Once you know this, you can work any decrease without looking it up.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| tr2tog | Treble crochet two together | Decrease: partially work two tr across two stitches, finish as one — YO twice for each, work off loops until one loop per stitch remains, then close all together. | |
| dc3tog | Double crochet three together | Decrease combining three dc into one stitch — work each dc to the final step, then YO and pull through all remaining loops. Common in ripple and chevron patterns. | |
| tr3tog | Treble crochet three together | Decrease combining three tr into one stitch — work each tr to the final step, then close all loops together. Creates a sharp point in chevron and shell patterns. |
These show up in amigurumi, seamless construction, and anywhere a pattern wants a clean, professional finish.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| MR | Magic ring | Also called magic circle or adjustable ring. A technique for starting rounds with no visible hole in the centre — wrap yarn around your finger, work stitches over the loop, then pull the tail to close the center hole tightly. Essential for amigurumi and seamless rounds. | |
| MC | Magic circle | Same as magic ring — different notation, same technique. | |
| join | Join | Close a round by slip stitching into the first stitch of that round. Keeps your rounds connected and prevents gaps. | |
| ch-sp | Chain space | The gap created by a chain in a previous row — you'll work into this space rather than into the chain stitches themselves. Common in lace and granny squares. | |
| 3ch-sp | 3-chain space | A chain space made of three chains. The number before "ch-sp" tells you how many chains made the gap you're working into. | |
| cc | Contrast colour | A second (or third) yarn colour used for colourwork sections. "Join cc" means bring in your contrast colour here. | |
| mc | Main colour | Your primary yarn colour. Used alongside cc in colourwork patterns to distinguish which yarn is which. | |
| cont | Continue | Keep going in the same pattern as established. "Cont in pattern" means don't change what you're doing — just keep repeating the established stitch sequence. | |
| w&t | Wrap and turn | A short-row technique — wrap the yarn around the next stitch, turn your work, and go back the other way. On the return row, lift the wrap and work it together with the stitch it surrounds to avoid a hole. Used for shaping without working full rows. |
This is exactly the kind of pattern logic Hook Cookbook handles automatically — so you can focus on making, not decoding.
Try it free →Instead of working into the top V of a stitch, post stitches are worked around the vertical stem — the post — of the stitch below. Essential for cables, ribbed brims, and waffle stitch.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| FP / BP | Front Post / Back Post | Modifier: the stitch is worked around the vertical stem of the stitch below, not into the top loops. FP inserts the hook from front to back; BP inserts from back to front. | |
| FPdc / BPdc | Front post double crochet / Back post double crochet | Standard dc worked around the front or back post of the stitch below. The most common post stitch — forms the raised ribs in ribbed hat brims and cuffs. | |
| FPtr / BPtr | Front post treble crochet / Back post treble crochet | Standard tr worked around the front or back post. Taller than FPdc — creates deeper, more pronounced cable and texture effects. | |
| FPsc / BPsc | Front post single crochet / Back post single crochet | Standard sc worked around the front or back post. Creates a tight, low-relief texture — used in dense ribbing and basketweave patterns. |
Extended stitches add an extra chain step at the base of a standard stitch, making the fabric slightly taller with more drape.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| esc / EXsc | Extended single crochet | Single crochet with an extra chain step at the base — insert hook, pull up loop, chain 1, then close as normal. Also known as elongated single crochet. Adds slight height and drape without switching to hdc. | |
| edc / EXdc | Extended double crochet | Double crochet with an extra chain step at the base. Creates a slightly taller fabric than standard dc with a looser, more flowing drape. |
These won't appear in pattern instructions — but you'll see them constantly in forums, Ravelry, Reddit, and Instagram. This is how crocheters talk to each other.
Any project you've started and not yet finished. Most crocheters maintain several simultaneously, which is completely normal.
A WIP that's been set aside — sometimes for months or years. The pile of UFOs is a universal crochet experience.
A completed project. Sharing your FO is a small ritual — most makers post photos with their yarn, hook size, and any modifications.
Unravelling your work — ripping it out. Named for "rip-it, rip-it." Can be devastating, occasionally liberating.
"Knit" spelled backwards — undoing stitches one at a time (rather than frogging the whole thing). The careful, controlled version of going back.
A group event where everyone works the same pattern together, often released in weekly segments. Community progress-sharing is half the fun.
When your yarn collection officially exceeds what one person could ever use in a lifetime. A badge of honour in most communities.
Your neighbourhood yarn shop. Supporting your LYS is considered good craft citizenship — and the advice is usually excellent.
Your personal yarn collection. Size varies from "a sensible amount" to SABLE. There is no wrong answer.
Community shorthand used heavily in granny square and amigurumi patterns.
Wrap yarn under the hook instead of over — produces tighter, X-shaped stitches. Used heavily in amigurumi for a denser fabric with fewer gaps.
Connect granny squares or motifs on the final round rather than sewing them together afterward. Saves finishing time and weaving in ends.
Join motifs with one continuous strand to avoid weaving in multiple ends. A refinement of JAYG for larger projects like blankets.
A slip-stitch joining method used to connect motifs in JAYG patterns. Insert hook, pull up a loop through both layers, and continue without cutting yarn.
US and UK patterns use the same words to mean completely different stitches. This causes more frogging than any other single issue. Always check which system your pattern uses before you cast on.
| 🇺🇸 US Term | 🇬🇧 UK Term | What it actually is |
|---|---|---|
| Slip stitch (sl st) | Slip stitch (sl st) | The same in both systems — no height, used to join and move yarn. |
| Single crochet (sc) | Double crochet (dc) | The shortest "real" stitch. Dense, tight fabric. Insert hook, pull loop, close in two moves. |
| Half double crochet (hdc) | Half treble crochet (htr) | Slightly taller than sc/UK dc. Yarn over first, then close all three loops in one move. |
| Double crochet (dc) | Treble crochet (tr) | The workhorse stitch. Yarn over first, close loops in two separate moves. |
| Treble crochet (tr) | Double treble (dtr) | Taller and more open. Yarn over twice before inserting hook, close loops three times. |
| Double treble (dtr) | Triple treble (trtr) | Very tall, very open. Yarn over three times, close loops four times. Mostly lace and decorative work. |
How to tell which system a pattern uses: if the shortest stitch is called "sc", it's US terms. If the shortest stitch is called "dc", it's UK terms. Most modern patterns state it explicitly in the notes — look at the top of the pattern before you start.
Different regions phrase the yarn-over action differently. All are interchangeable with yo — same action, different origin.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| yoh | Yarn over hook | UK and Australian phrasing for yarn over. Means the same thing — wrap the yarn over the hook from back to front. Used interchangeably with yo in most modern patterns. | |
| yrn | Yarn round needle | International variation for yarn over, sometimes seen in vintage or translated patterns. Identical action: wrap yarn over hook before working the next step. | |
| yon | Yarn over needle | Vintage and international variation for yarn over. All three terms — yoh, yrn, yon — describe the same wrapping action as yo; only the source pattern's origin differs. |
Knowing the abbreviations is only half of it. Patterns also use punctuation — asterisks, parentheses, brackets — in specific ways that change everything about how you read them.
Marks the start of a sequence to repeat. Work to the end of the marked section, then go back to the * and repeat as many times as instructed.
Example: "* sc, ch 1, skip 1; rep from * to end" — keep doing those three actions all the way across.
Work all the stitches listed inside the parentheses into the same stitch or space. Creates fans, shells, and clusters.
Example: "(dc, ch 2, dc)" means work a dc, a ch-2, and another dc all into the same stitch.
Work the sequence inside the brackets the number of times shown after. Similar function to asterisks, just with explicit counting.
Example: "[sc, bobble, sc] × 16" — do that three-stitch sequence sixteen times across the row.
A number at the end of a row in parentheses tells you how many stitches you should have when you finish. Use it to check yourself.
Example: "sc across. (48 sc)" — if you count something other than 48, go back and find the error before continuing.
Patterns sized for multiple sizes often list stitch counts with dashes: the first number is the smallest size, the last is the largest.
Example: "ch 40 (44, 48, 52)" — chain 40 for size S, 52 for size XL. Choose your number and stick with it throughout.
Some patterns use † or ** to mark a second distinct repeat section when * is already in use. Works the same way — repeat from that symbol as instructed.
Example: "** sc in next 3 sts, skip 1; rep from ** 8 times" — that whole sequence, eight times.
This is exactly the notation logic Hook Cookbook parses automatically when you upload a pattern — turning complex repeats into clean, tappable rows.
Try it free →Short words and abbreviations that control flow — how to move through a pattern, where to work, and what came before.
| Abbrev. | Full name | What it means | |
|---|---|---|---|
| alt | Alternate / alternately | Work a step in an alternating pattern — one stitch this way, the next that way, and so on. Common in colour changes and textured sequences. | |
| bet | Between | Work into the space between stitches rather than into the top loops of a stitch. Similar to "sp" but more general — used when the gap isn't made by a chain. | |
| foll | Following | Work into the very next stitch or the next specified pattern space. "Foll st" means the stitch immediately after the current one. | |
| lp(s) | Loop(s) | The strand(s) of yarn on the hook or forming the top of a stitch. "Both lps" means insert through both the front and back loop as normal; a stitch count in parentheses tells you how many loops to work through. | |
| patt / pat | Pattern | Continue the established sequence of stitches as set up in previous rows. "Work in patt" means repeat what you've already been doing — don't change anything. | |
| prev | Previous | Refers to the row, round, or stitch just completed. "Prev row" means look back one row for your reference point. | |
| tog | Together | Standalone base term for working stitches into one — the root used in sc2tog, dc2tog, and similar decreases. When used alone ("work tog"), it means join the indicated stitches into a single stitch. |
The questions every crocheter Googles at least once.
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